Canoe trip down the Ord River
We first paddled the Ord river nearly twenty years ago and since then very little has changed. It is an excellent trip.
Lake Argyle was created by the Ord river Dam which was completed in 1971. It took two years for the lake to fill. In 1996 the spillway wall was raised by 6m, doubling the size of the lake and putting an end to whitewater kayaking on the Spillway creek, an artificial water course that joins the upper Ord near Stonewall Camp. Locals will tell you that in the wet season Spillway creek is flows with the largest river flow in Australia but for us we are on the more sedate Ord.
From Lake Kununurra most of the water is now diverted into irrigation canals for agriculture, although some still makes its way over Ivanhoe Crossing and into the Lower Ord and on to the sea. The lower Ord is full of Saltwater crocs so for canoes and kayaks is a place for the foolhardy, but the upper part is wonderful to paddle.
We flew to Kununurra from Perth with a sleeping bag and a change of clothes, then rented all our gear from Go Wild Adventures who supply everything. They pick you up in town and drop you at the start and collect you at the end. Nothing could be easier.
Kununurra means ‘water’ in Miriwoong, the local language. It probably should mean ‘two’, for there are two supermarkets, two outdoor shops, two good cafes and two good restaurants. There is also a bunch of other shops that will not interest you.
The start of the trip is immediately below the dam wall, and impressively small structure holding back a lake with nearly twenty times the water of Sydney Harbour. A small hydro power station generates most of the East Kimberley power requirements so the river is always flowing.
Go Wild has two permanent bush camps set up on the river, discretely hidden from view. They have fire pits, gas BBQs, drop toilets and sleeping platforms. Go Wild also offers one or two day trips with boat pickup, but with these camps everything is so easy a three day trip is a must.
The trip is family friendly but don’t let that put you off. Families who do this sort of stuff together are fun, or if you want isolation it is a big place with not many people.
In season, May to September, the daily temperature ranges between 15min and 34 max with little or no rain. River is drinking quality fresh and just the right temperature for a swim.
For the first few km the river is narrow and the water flow is enough to create a couple of grade 1 rapids. Go Wild provide you with an excellent set of laminated maps which include wildlife notes and fishing hints.
Fishing hint: Catfish, sold as Silver Cobbler in Perth fish and chip shops, are easy to catch if you leave your line in over night. Fry fillets in butter.
As you might expect, year-round fresh water is a haven for birds. There are the all usual suspects plus a few such as the Jesus Bird, so called because it seems to walk on water (Comb crested Jacana). Keep an eye out for little terns, rainbow bee eaters, sea eagles, and the great bowerbird.
Lizards and snakes numbers have been decimated by the cane toads, but we saw three snakes all of them poisonous. Cane toads are toxic to native animals, and also stupid, so they are easily caught — by local species or by you. Go Wild suggest you kill them and bury the body. If you listen to a Kununurra local cane toads are the least loved thing on the planet.
Freshwater crocodiles inhabit this upper section of the river. They are extremely shy and you will have to be observant to see them. We were told they eat only insects, and they do seem to inhabit reed beds and places where there are lots of insects, but why do they have such large teeth?
It is 20 km paddling to the first bush camp. You can paddle a short side trip up Cooliman creek, or walk to the lookout and small cave above the camp, or explore Pelican creek just below the camp.
The second day is shorter, about 8 km to the second bush camp. This camp is at the junction of Stonewall creek where water flowing over the spillway joins the Ord. Along this section make sure you explore Herbies Hideaway and walk all the way to the swimming hole, and also be sure to stop at jumping rock and jump off at the height you feel happy with.
There are plenty of alternative places to camp if you wish to be independent. In a kayak you could very easily paddle a two day trip and camp somewhere between these two camps, but Go Wild offer discounts if you use your own kayaks so I see little reason not to use them.
The final day is 23 km, the longest day as final days often are. There is less flow here and for the second half of the day there are houses and irrigated farmland on your left. Make sure you visit Emu Creek wetland and stop below Elephant rock to see the art site.
You can finish either at the caravan park or the boat ramp. A little further downstream is the Pumphouse Restaurant who serve cold beer. It is a slightly more difficult ending as you will need to carry gear up the rocky bank but the beer is worth it. They open at 4.30, the perfect time. Enthusiasts can go an extra km, all the way to the swimming beach just above the diversion dam. Go Wild will collect you at any of these points and return you to your hotel.
More details: www.gowild.com.au
www.martinchambers.id.au for the Canoe and Kayak Guide to Western Australia
